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Soulful Americana in the Mission0 Comments

the tablehopper | 11:57 am | November 13, 2009 | Foodie 411, Mission | Add a comment

Ryan Ostler and Katharine Zacher of (former) Broken Record fame are (quietly) ready to begin feeding folks at Bruno’s. They’re going to be making adjustments to the menu, staffing, and more in the coming weeks, but locals will be pleased that their delicious and affordable Southern-American fare is back on our culinary scene. They will be serving their much-loved Southern-American fare, like brisket, ribs, pulled pork, and yes, rotating dishes like gumbo and their famed Frito pie, plus delicious desserts, and some new seasonally driven dishes, like salads. I also hear a special sous vide fried chicken (a la Thomas Keller style) and waffle are in the works.
Bar opens at 5:30pm, and the kitchen will be open Tue–Sat from 6pm–10:30pm (perhaps later, to be determined).

Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about the SF dining scene, “the tablehopper.” Subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com and get it in your inbox every Tuesday. Got news? Email Marcia at taste@sanfrancisco.travel.


Where’s the Beef?0 Comments

the tablehopper | 12:13 pm | September 4, 2009 | Foodie 411, Mission | Add a comment

Mission Burger | photo credit Jared Zimmerman
Mission Burger | photo credit Jared Zimmerman

You just can’t stop Anthony Myint and Mission Street Food. MSF has launched Mission Burger inside the Duc Loi supermarket, yes, in the Mission. What this means for you is a mighty delicious beef or vegan burger, plus fries, starting at noon daily (except Thursday, which is a Mission Street Food day) and possibly running until 2pm or 3pm or so.

According to their site, here’s more on your options: the beef burger is 1/3 lb. of aged Harris Ranch brisket, short rib, and chuck, granulated* and seared in beef fat (beeftastic!). It’s served with Monterey jack, caramelized onion, and caper aioli on a griddled Acme bun ($8). The vegan burger ($7) features a maitake, shiitake, roasted kale, edamame, scallion, sesame seed, and fava-chickpea patty, and is served with avocado and miso “mayo” (they are using seaweed instead of egg yolks) on a griddled Acme bun. Fries are $2. There isn’t a place to eat it, so be prepared to stand there or eat it on a milk crate.

*About that granulation, here’s what MSF says on the site: “granulation is our term for the process popularized by Heston Blumenthal, a Michelin 3-star chef based in London. Blumenthal combines strands of ground meat to create a loosely grained “meat column” (not Blumenthal’s phrase), then slices the column into patties. The result is, well, a delicacy.”

Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about the SF dining scene, “the tablehopper.” Subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com and get it in your inbox every Tuesday. Got news? Email Marcia at taste@sanfrancisco.travel.


A New Style of “Restaurant”0 Comments

the tablehopper | 12:12 pm | December 30, 2008 | Foodie 411, Mission | Add a comment

Butter fried cornbread with buttermilk panacotta | credit Jesse Friedman
Butter fried cornbread with buttermilk panacotta | credit Jesse Friedman

There’s an ad hoc dining trend that is popping up in San Francisco, with chefs and cooks and pastry chefs cooking outside their restaurants, creating and hosting unique food-centric events and concepts. One is Mission Street Food, which started with cook Anthony Myint from Bar Tartine. He was originally offering late-night food from a taco truck once a week in the Mission, but has now moved the Thursday night event into Lung Shan, a dingy Chinese restaurant in the Mission. More and more guest chefs are taking part and preparing food, most of it ridiculously and pleasantly affordable—a recent night had Carlo Espinas from Piccino, sous chef Ian Muntzert of Bar Tartine, and Amy Kurtz, a recent transplant from Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago. Winners on that evening’s menu included a poutine from Espinas made with Marin Sun Farms beef and marrow gravy, with Cowgirl Creamery cheese curds, and Kennebec fries—some of the best $7 you can hope to spend. Another winner was the house special from Myint, the gooey cheesesteak with pasilla peppers in a homemade flatbread, with onion and cheese ($6.50).

The night draws all kinds of locals, with all kinds of ages, from little kids to Mission hipsters to couples to industry folks to groups of friends out for a bite, so expect a wait. The servers (many of them are not professional servers) are very kind, the vibe is fun, and the style is irreverent. Follow the website for updates on who is cooking, and details about the schedule since it’s not every Thursday.

Another group doing alt food events is OPENrestaurant. Coming up on January 6th is OPENrestaurant with Slow Food Nation. Here’s more from the event announcement: “Engage members of Slow Food Nation and the urban farming community as they join OPENrestaurant, a socially engineered informal dinner created by a collective of restaurant professionals. Participants will share a simple meal while chewing on the question: How can the urban landscape be productive? Meal ticket buyers will be able to enjoy dinner and a glass of wine while learning more about urban farming, foraging, and gleaning from people directly involved in these practices.” The organizers and Yerba Buena Center for the Arts have increased ticket capacity so they can serve more people, and $20 will buy you a meal and glass of wine. Attendees are invited to come and participate in the discussion for free. Entry to discussion is open to everyone. Meal ticket is $20 general/$15 YBCA Members; discussion is FREE. For tickets, please call the box office at 415-978-2787 or www.ybca.org. The event begins at 7pm.

Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about the SF dining scene, “the tablehopper.” Subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com and get it in your inbox every Tuesday. Got news? Email Marcia at taste@sanfrancisco.travel.


On a Mission0 Comments

the tablehopper | 12:00 pm | | Foodie 411, Mission | Add a comment

All kinds of new businesses are popping up in the Mission, so here’s an overview of the latest additions to the culinary scene there.

This is sure to make some East Coast folks happy: Phat Philly is officially open (well, officially in their soft opening phase). You can start with the classic Philly cheesesteak, made with Niman Ranch beef, caramelized onions, Whiz, and topped with hot cherry peppers (there are all kinds of peppers at the pepper bar, from banana to sweet peppers), and perhaps consider a side of their criss-cut waffle fries with their house-made cheddar sauce made with Newcastle Ale, topped with sweet caramelized onions ($4). Then again, it would be enough food for two, and enough fat for ten. Warning: this is not a place for the calorie-phobic.

The 7″ Amoroso rolls are flown in from Philly (the “phat” 12″ size will be start arriving in early January) and are super soft. Until the 12″ rolls arrive, the owner was talking about offering a “buy one get one half-off” deal or something similar—ask if you’re hungry. There are some vegetarian options, eleven kinds with meat, plus chicken wings (BBQ or Buffalo), Italian beef sandwiches (even the giardiniera comes from Chicago), salads, and milkshakes. East Coast treats like Tastykakes, Herr’s Pretzel’s and Chips, and Just Born Peanut Chews are coming soon. There are lots of homemade sauces, like the marinara, cheddar beer sauce, and BBQ. Beer (Pilsner Urquell, Blue Moon, and Newcastle) will be on tap any day now—they are just waiting on permits. Oh, and there are free refills on sodas! Enjoy. Open daily 11am–10pm, and late-night weekend hours are coming soon—hopefully.

Humphry Slocombe is also open, a cutting-edge ice cream shop off 24th Street from owner Jake Godby (formerly of Coi, Fifth Floor, Boulevard). You’ll be able to try 10–12 flavors, and please note during the soft opening period they will only be serving one size—a single serving—and no sundaes just yet.

Some of the opening flavors will be secret breakfast (bourbon and cornflakes), coconut sherbet, and balsamic caramel. Check out the entire line-up of creamy culinary concoctions on the website—there are even flavors like foie gras and black walnut. The space has red Woolworth’s swivel chairs that date back to 1947, a bright blue awning, and looks cheerful and modern.

Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about the SF dining scene, “the tablehopper.” Subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com and get it in your inbox every Tuesday. Got news? Email Marcia at taste@sanfrancisco.travel.


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