Openings Around Town

the tablehopper | 6:22 pm | December 1, 2009 | Foodie 411

Moving into the former Fuzio space on Chestnut is Delarosa, the latest project from the Beretta and Starbelly team: Ruggero Gadaldi, Adriano Paganini, and Deborah Blum. The all-day eatery will be open continuously, and will have a strong focus on the item of the year (yes, pizza): but these will be Roman style, very thin, and 14 inches (there will be ten to choose from). There will also be a variety of antipasti, like meatballs or arancini, plus panini, salads, pastas (like cannelloni or the interesting-sounding olive gnocchi), and bomboloni for dessert.

While Beretta is cocktail-focused, Delarosa is going to be primarily a birreria, with a list of over 14 beers on tap and 15 in bottle chosen by Rich Higgins–he designed the beer menu at Starbelly. Ten seasonal and handcrafted cocktails will also be available. Jim Zack of Zack/de Vito Architecture (Starbelly, Bacar, Globe, Manresa) is behind the modern tangerine and dark grey space, which will have diners tucked in at communal tables and a 12-seat bar. There will also be late-night dining.

• 2175 Chestnut St. at Pierce, 415-673-7100

The local culinary scene is one restaurant richer: chef-owner Melissa Perello is opening her first very-own and much-anticipated restaurant, Frances. The intimate restaurant is where the short-lived Palencia was, and will be bringing a comfortable but classy style to the neighborhood.

The modern California menu will change daily, with seasonal and local ingredients. Tidbits on the opening/test menu included an appetizer of roasted chestnut soup with cipollini onions and house-cured pancetta ($9); a main of ling cod crusted with Boccalone lardo, plus Manila clams and fingerling potatoes ($23); and vegetarians will be happy to see the lacinato kale and crepe cannelloni, with wild mushrooms, leeks, and Gouda ($17). There’s also a section called bouchées, with savory bites like duck liver mousse with pickled currants, cress, and grilled levain ($6.50 each). The wine list from Paul Einbund has around 100 global selections, including two house-blended wines on tap using grapes from the central coast region of California (both are in the $6/glass price range). The designer is Michael Baushke of Apparatus (he also designed Ubuntu)–there are 48 seats total (34 in the dining room, 14 in the bar), ecru-toned walls, solid walnut table tops and counters with ebony finish, and a monotype B&W series by Katie Van Horne. Dinner is served Sun, Tue–Thu 5pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 5pm–10:30pm.

• 3870 17th St. at Noe, 415-621-3870

Potrero Hill neighbors didn’t have to mourn the closure of Eliza’s for too long, since the restaurant’s replacement, Pera, has already opened in its place. The Mediterranean menu is focused on Turkish and Greek dishes, including meze starters like dolmades, an eggplant dish called satsuka, and zucchini cakes (all $5.50–$13 for a platter), with main dishes like lamb shish kebab, and lamb chops ($13­–$21). Lunch is also served, with wraps and more affordable main dishes. Owner Irfan Yalcin has two experienced Turkish chefs in the kitchen, who are using local and organic ingredients when possible, and the breads and baklava are made in house. The beer and wine license should be up and running in a week or so. Yalcin named the restaurant after an elegant shopping neighborhood in the heart of Istanbul. Since there are a lot of families in the neighborhood, it’s kid friendly, and take out is available. Brunch is also coming soon. Open for lunch daily 11:30am­–2:30pm, and dinner Mon–Sat 5pm–10pm (until 10:30pm Fri–Sat), and Sun 4:30pm–9pm.

• 1457 18th St. at Missouri, 415-796-3812

Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about the SF dining scene, “the tablehopper.” Subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com and get it in your inbox every Tuesday. Got news? Email Marcia at taste@sanfrancisco.travel.