High Tide in North Beach

the tablehopper | 12:17 pm | March 4, 2009 | Foodie 411, North Beach

A San Francisco favorite is returning to the dining scene: Washington Square Bar & Grill reopened on March 2nd. The new owners are business partners Liam and Susan Tiernan of Tiernan’s Pub in Fisherman’s Wharf. They did some major reconstruction, including replacing the floors, putting in an all-new kitchen, making the space ADA-compliant, and much more. The décor will still feel very much the same to those who remember it well (including the presence of some original “ampersand” cocktail napkins at the bar).

Washington Square Bar & Grill | credit Marcia Gagliardi

But there are also new touches, like portraits by photographer Jock McDonald of local characters on the walls, like Willie, Robert Mondavi, and Ed Moose. Herb Caen’s typewriter is also going to be on display. Most of the original kitchen staff is returning, plus three bartenders (Mike McCourt, Mitch Gilbreath, Mike Fraser). There will also be piano jazz nightly. The chef is Jacques Rousseau, and his dinner menu includes approachable starters like mussels, a variety of salads, and calamari, plus main-dish pastas, a flatiron steak, roasted chicken breast, a pork rack, and pan-seared sea bass.

The Washbag will be open daily 11:30am–10pm for dining, with the bar until 2am. Lunch will be served 11:30am–2:30pm, a bar menu until 5pm, and then dinner from 5pm–10pm. Look for a big block party in April or May. Welcome back.

• 1707 Powell St. at Columbus, 415-433-1188.

Another opening in North Beach is Pickles in the old Clown Alley space—Tom Duffy, the former owner of Myth, took it over a couple years ago. The corner spot has undergone quite the transformation: the outdoor patio is now enclosed, with a retractable roof (sporting a million-dollar view of the Transamerica building when it’s open), a fireplace, heat lamps, and comfy booths with dotted upholstery. Inside, there are wood-slat walls and sections of the ceiling that almost feel chalet-like, plus woven chairs, striped glass-globe lights, and booths with a gold circle pattern.

The chef is Matthew Kerley, who was formerly in the kitchen at Myth. The menu sounds delicious: to start, deviled eggs, or a pot of pickles with pork rillette and grilled ciabatta, or grilled asparagus, plus five inventive salads, like the slider salad (three Prather Ranch 3 oz. beef patties, petite romaine heart, ciabatta croutons, tomatoes, shaved egg, creamy garlic tarragon dressing, and Grana Padano, for $9). The burgers feature Prather Ranch beef, plus there’s a grilled Rosie’s chicken sandwich, an ahi tuna or vegetarian burger, and Prather Ranch hot dogs, served either plain, Chicago, or taxi-style with chili. You can also get beer-battered Vidalia onion rings, or mini corn dogs on the side. Save room for dessert, because not only is there actual East Coast frozen custard on offer, but custard sundaes to boot.

Alex Fox, who worked with Duffy at Myth, put together the well-chosen wine list, with selections available by the glass, carafe, and bottle. It may be a hamburger joint, but the wine list even includes a few exclusives, like Aviemore Napa Valley cab.

Pickles is open for lunch to start, from 10am–4pm or 5pm or thereabouts, and then dinner will kick in on April 1st, with service until 10pm Tue–Thu, and until 3am Fri–Sat.

• 42 Columbus Ave. at Jackson, 415-421-2540.

Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about the SF dining scene, “the tablehopper.” Subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com and get it in your inbox every Tuesday. Got news? Email Marcia at taste@sanfrancisco.travel.