April 9, 2008

the tablehopper | 10:35 am | April 9, 2008 | Foodie 411

We already know we have some stellar local restaurant talent, but it’s always nice to be noticed. Below are the local nominees for the 2008 James Beard Awards, held in New York on June 8:

• Boulevard and the Slanted Door for Outstanding Restaurant
• Nate Appleman (A16/SPQR) for Rising Star Chef
• Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson (Tartine Bakery) and Nicole Plue (Redd) for Outstanding Pastry Chef
• Terra (St. Helena) for Outstanding Service
• Douglas Keane, Cyrus (Healdsburg); David Kinch, Manresa (Los Gatos); Craig Stoll, Delfina (San Francisco); and Michael Tusk, Quince (San Francisco) for Best Chef: Pacific region.

Big changes in North Beach are underway. Local landmark Moose’s recently underwent a massive remodel, but now it’s becoming something else entirely. Joseph Manzare (Globe, Tres Agaves, Pescheria, Zuppa) and his business partner Eddie Maiello have bought the North Beach stalwart, and are transforming it into their dream East Coast-style Italian restaurant, Joey & Eddie’s.

Seems native New Yorkers Joseph and Eddie got tired of pining for their favorites at Carmine’s and Dominick’s back east, so look for old school classics like pastas with red or white sauce, stuffed artichokes, shrimp scampi, spaghetti and meatballs, and veal saltimbocca. The goal is low prices, but more food—and to create a place where families can dine affordably. Look for dinner and brunch to start; lunch might begin at a later date. There will definitely be a big party to honor the Mooses and salute the closing of the restaurant in a proper fashion.

1652 Stockton St. at Union, 415-989-7800.

While the actual launch of the Joey & Eddie’s concept won’t happen until the end of April or beginning of May, Moose’s will stay open, serving dinner and drinks. In fact, the kitchen is now under the direction of chef Jerry McGinnis, who just came over from Manzare’s and Maiello’s restaurant, Pescheria, which suddenly closed on Saturday, April 5th (the building was sold). The Pescheria restaurant concept will eventually be moving into a much more central location: 1600 Market Street, near Zuni. That project is a couple years out, so stay tuned.

Some new openings around town: first is Chez Papa Resto in Mint Plaza. The menu offers French Provencal bistro-inspired fare from executive chef David Bazirgan (most recently at Baraka, Chez Papa Bistrot, and La Suite); there are also 23 wines by the glass, and 150 selections on the list. John Michaud of Find did the chic interior, featuring black with punches of bright orange, Murano glass chandeliers, rosewood burl tabletops, a spacious bar, and a chef’s table made of antique glass. There is also outdoor seating with room for 88—should be a prime downtown spot once the heat lamps are in, and on a sunny day lunch service begins (on April 7th). Dinner nightly 5:30pm–11pm (10pm on Sunday).

414 Jessie St. between Mission and Market near Fifth, 415-546-4134.

Meanwhile, over in the Mission, the Last Supper Club transformed into Beretta, a late-night pizzeria (choose from 13 delicious kinds!) and restaurant with a menu of over 22 antipasti, like a variety of bruschette, salumi, salads, and vegetable dishes, plus four risottos, made with local, seasonal, and sustainable ingredients when possible. Owner Ruggero Gadaldi (Pesce, Antica Trattoria) has assembled quite the team for the inventive bar and wine programs, so don’t miss out on a cocktail here. The downstairs will have multiple communal tables, with seating for 35, and 70 upstairs. The rustic look will feature chandeliers, concrete floors, and hand-painted murals. Open daily 5:30pm–12am.

1199 Valencia St. at 23rd, 415-695-1199.

Another Italian restaurant that has opened is Poesia, a project from Francesco D’Ippolito. This upstairs little nook has rustic and affordable Italian dishes, with many that are Calabresi in origin (lots of family recipes are featured). Items on the menu range from the ever-popular arancini (fried balls of arborio rice and smoked mozzarella, $6) to burrata ($9.50), and pastas like pasta al forno with meatballs and soppressata, and fusilli al ragu di maiale (pork rib ragu), both $12. Mains (which will rotate often) include chicken, a New York steak with a wine reduction made from Ciro, a hearty Calabrese red, and baccalà with pancetta and potato, all $17–$22. There’s a full bar too. Dinner will be served nightly from 5:30pm–11pm, and even later on Fri–Sat, with weekend brunch starting in a couple weeks.

4072 18th St. at Castro, 415-252-9325.

A new place to unwind after work (or perhaps after a convention at Moscone) is ECO-LICIOUS, a happy hour at the XYZ Bar/W Cafe at the W Hotel. The party goes from 5:30pm–7:30pm every Monday through Friday, with organic wines, beer, and $10 cocktails (a vodka-elderflower number with a prosecco float, and a tequila-watermelon-chili cocktail, both concocted by H. Joseph Ehrmann). There will be organic bar bites as well, like Asiago cheese pizza with organic spring onion and asparagus, and crisp polenta with boquerones and piquillo peppers. Guests can continue their green evening after ECO-LICIOUS by dining on farm-to-table seasonal Californian cuisine in XYZ Restaurant. A portion of the proceeds generated during ECO-LICIOUS goes to Save the Bay during the month of April.

181 Third St. at Howard, 415-777-5300.

Another downtown and Moscone-accessible location is Bong Su, which has five new chef-driven cocktails on their innovative drink menu, like the Mekong Martini (with black tea-infused tapioca balls topped up with mango puree, Vietnamese Kai Lychee Vodka, and pandan leaf); the Cherimoya Sidecar, and the Saigon Sun made with coconut water.

311 Third St. at Folsom, 415-536-5800.

Then for weekend brunch, Bar Johnny in Russian Hill is offering bottomless mimosas for $9. In case you would like to eat something beyond the complimentary New York crumb cake, you can choose from build-your-own brunch selections: two eggs, one protein and a side, all for $9.50. There is also house-made granola, French toast, or pancakes à la carte, or sandwiches. Sat–Sun 11am–3pm.

2209 Polk St. at Vallejo, 415-268-0140.

Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about the SF dining scene, “the tablehopper.” Subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com and get it in your inbox every Tuesday.